What a difference a state line makes. Today was incredible. It finally felt like I was on holiday. It's been tough going, but the views and the people I met have been great.
Got up earlyish to take advantage of the continental breakfast at the Best Western. I had some instant oatmeal with peanut butter in it. I like it, and before you say it's gross, I've seen videos online of Japanese people eating shit omelettes.
Biked 15 miles to Seaside and saw the ocean for the first time on the trip, not just a bay or a sound, as I had heretofore. Just past Seaside, and after a short climb is Cannon Bay with some breathtaking rock formations that loom over the beach from out in the Pacific.
Just past Cannon Beach, I stopped at an overlook at the top of hill and met four cyclists who I could tell were German well before I heard them speak. First the glasses, then the fact that their bikes and gear were almost uniform and very tidy. They said they had watched me coming up the hill and were impressed with how quickly I had taken it, adding that they were old men. I laughed and tried to liken my efforts on the hill to a Blitzkrieg. They smiled a bit but stopped short of laughing.
At the same wayside, I met a couple touring the coast in a rented convertable who, as it turns out, live only 5 blocks from me back in Chicago. Crazy. The gentleman ran off to the car before leaving and presented me with a bottle of beer "for the end of the day." Now that's midwestern hospitality.
Still ahead was the toughest climb I'd had so far, but it didn't phase me, if only for the vistas it offered. It's the part of 101 that runs through Oswald West State Park. It's helpful that there were pulloffs and viewpoints every 1/4 mile or so to give me a chance to catch my breath and enjoy the view.
Grabbed lunch in Nehalem and met a cyclist who recommended some campsites down the coast. I still feel like I'm a newbie at the whole cycling scene and it feels weird to be thrust into the community. Though it doens't take much I suppose; just get yourself a helmet and some gas-ass bike shorts and you're in. Hell, I could be a judge if I had a robe.
I ended up at Barview Jetty County Park (which was supposed to be the end of my 4th day) so I remain officially one day ahead of schedule. It was a short day, but I could use a long rest and I got in early enough to shower, set up camp and enjoy the sunset on the beach. Hot damn. It's nice to fall asleep to the sound of the ocean. Also, I think I'm going to move to Oregon.
For the Day:
Rolling Time: 4:14:00
Distance: 54:36 miles
Avg Speed: 12.84 mph
23 August 2006
Day Two - Montesano, WA to Astoria, OR
I started late on day two, getting out by 10:30AM after packing up camp, and endured the worst 20 miles I'd ever biked. It was due partly to the fact that I was very tired from the day before, but mostly because it was cold and windy. I fought a headwind all morning through innumerable rolling hills. Slogged through it though, and made it to Raymond by 2:30, after which was a long stretch of nothing for maybe 30 miles. I had to stop every 5-10 miles for a break as my muscles are still getting used to this.
Finally I found a small gas station/convenience store in a town called Naselle. Good thing too because I was completely out of water. There I met a guy named Dave who rode a maroon Harley with dozens of peacock feathers fanning out from his seat on each side like the shoes of Hermes. Nice bloke. Dave, that is. I can't speak for Hermes. Turns out Dave is a peacock rancher and gave me a feather to adorn the back of my bike.
The last 15 miles to the Astoria bridge were beautiful, but it was getting dark. The bridge is long and narrow and windy as it crosses the Columbia and there is little room for bikes to fit next to the logging trucks. There's no real place to stop, though it's an exhausting ride. The worst part is that for the whole of this 2.5 mile ride you see up ahead a ridiculous climb (maybe 10 degrees for a half mile).
I promised myself that if I could do the three days in two that I'd get a motel in Astoria, so I pulled into the first place I could find. A Best Western which ended up being way more expensive than I'd have liked, but I lucked out and grabbed the last room available which was the jacuzzi suite. The nice young lady behind the desk, named Kelsey, gave me the room at a regular rate though. She said something about doing whatever it takes to make me happy, before realizing how it could be taken and was uncomfortably quiet for a while.
For the Day:
Rolling Time: 6:40:01
Distance: 82.11 miles
Avg Speed: 12.31
Finally I found a small gas station/convenience store in a town called Naselle. Good thing too because I was completely out of water. There I met a guy named Dave who rode a maroon Harley with dozens of peacock feathers fanning out from his seat on each side like the shoes of Hermes. Nice bloke. Dave, that is. I can't speak for Hermes. Turns out Dave is a peacock rancher and gave me a feather to adorn the back of my bike.
The last 15 miles to the Astoria bridge were beautiful, but it was getting dark. The bridge is long and narrow and windy as it crosses the Columbia and there is little room for bikes to fit next to the logging trucks. There's no real place to stop, though it's an exhausting ride. The worst part is that for the whole of this 2.5 mile ride you see up ahead a ridiculous climb (maybe 10 degrees for a half mile).
I promised myself that if I could do the three days in two that I'd get a motel in Astoria, so I pulled into the first place I could find. A Best Western which ended up being way more expensive than I'd have liked, but I lucked out and grabbed the last room available which was the jacuzzi suite. The nice young lady behind the desk, named Kelsey, gave me the room at a regular rate though. She said something about doing whatever it takes to make me happy, before realizing how it could be taken and was uncomfortably quiet for a while.
For the Day:
Rolling Time: 6:40:01
Distance: 82.11 miles
Avg Speed: 12.31
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